• 4 to 4 1/2 cups (586 to 520g) all-purpose flour, divided

• 1 (7-gram) package active dry yeast

• 1/2 teaspoon ground mace or ground nutmeg

• 1 cup milk

• 1 stick (8 tablespoons) butter

• 1/4 cup (50g) granulated sugar

• 1 teaspoon salt

• 2 eggs

• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

• 1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

• 1 (12.5-ounce) can poppy seed filling (or make your own, see below)

• 1/4 cup raisins, optional

• 1 egg

• 1 tablespoon milk

Homemade poppy seed filling (if you are not using canned)

• 1 cup (145g) poppy seed

• 1/2 cup milk

• 1/4 cup honey

• 1/3 cup (78g) finely chopped dates

• 1/3 cup (43g) finely chopped nuts (such as walnuts or pecans)

• Dash cinnamon

1. Mix 2 cups of the flour with the yeast and nutmeg: Combine 2 cups of the flour, plus the yeast and nutmeg or mace in a large mixing bowl. Set aside.

2. Make the dough: In a medium saucepan over medium heat, heat the milk, butter, sugar, and salt just until warm to the touch (120°F to 130°F) and butter is melted. Pour the warm milk mixture into the flour mixture mixture. Add the 2 eggs, vanilla, and lemon zest and beat with an electric mixer on low to medium speed for 30 seconds (if using a stand mixer, use the paddle attachment). Scrape the side of the bowl, then beat on high speed for 3 minutes.

3. Knead dough and let rise: Switch to the dough hook (if using a stand mixer) and on low speed, beat in as much of the remaining flour as needed to make a soft, supple dough. Knead on medium speed until smooth and elastic, 3 to 5 minutes. Place the dough in a lightly greased bowl, turning once to grease the surface. Cover; let rise in a warm place until double in size, about 1 to 1 1/2 hours.

4. Make the filling: Meanwhile, if you are making the poppy seed filling from scratch, combine the filling ingredients in a saucepan. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until thick, about 5 minutes. Set aside to cool.

5. Deflate and divide the dough: Gently deflate the dough and turn it out onto a lightly floured surface.Divide the dough in half. Cover; let rest 10 minutes. Grease 2 baking sheets.

6. Roll out the dough and cut into squares: Roll each dough half into a 16x8-inch rectangle. Cut each rectangle into eight 4x4 squares.

7. Shape the kolache: Place 1 heaping tablespoon of poppy seed filling onto the center of each square. If you want, add a few raisins on top of the filling. Brush the four corners of each square with water. Draw the corners up and gently press together. Secure with a toothpick.

8. Proof the shaped kolache: Preheat the oven to 375°F. Place the kolache on the greased baking sheets, 2 inches apart. Cover; let rise in a warm place until nearly double, about 35 minutes.

9. Brush with the egg wash: Beat the remaining egg with 1 tablespoon of milk. Lightly brush the egg wash over the kolache.

10. Bake: Bake at 375°F for 12 to 15 minutes, or until golden. Transfer to wire racks; cool completely. Remove toothpicks.